Ice Cream

Dulce de Leche… revisited

If you have read this blog, you know I love caramel… With family coming over the holidays, I had to whip up a batch of dulce de leche to go over some decadent homemade vanilla ice cream. Of course, there’s nothing fast about making dulce de leche. It is a 3 hour long milk-jam-fest, but I think it is well worth it. In the end you have a caramelized jam that tastes distinctly of the milk you started with. As always, I urge you to use the best ingredients you can find because you are concentrating all those flavors.

Here are my recent exploits along with pictures:

Dulce de Leche
2 quarts or 1 half gallon Milk
24 oz Sugar
1 vanilla bean
3/4 tsp baking soda

1. Have sterile jars ready to go for your finished product. If you sterilize in the dishwasher, just leave them in there until you are ready. We are not making a pantry item, like fruit jams, and we will not be water-bath sealing the jars. This product must live in the refrigerator. I have found it lasts much longer than the pros suggest. They suggest between 1-2 months, and I have found it good in my fridge for 6.

2. Slice & scrape vanilla bean into milk, in the largest pot you have. It should be at least twice as tall as the amount of liquid you’re putting into it. (I use a 8″ high large wide oval enameled cast-iron oven – see pics.)

3. Bring milk up to almost boiling. (It is never good to walk away from boiling or almost-boiling dairy. Once you start this recipe, you are in the kitchen with that pot for almost 3 hours. Make sure you have a drink, a snack, and that you’re good to go.)

4. Add sugar and stir continuously until sugar dissolves and becomes completely incorporated into the milk.

5. As mixture comes almost to a boil once again, add the baking soda.

After adding Baking Soda

(BE PREPARED – this tiny amount of baking soda is going to cause a bubbly and hissy fit in the pot. In my pot, which is more than double the amount of milk, it does almost bubble over the edge. When this happens, I remove the pot from the heat for a few seconds to let it relax. Once manageable, I put right back on the heat.)

 

 

Calm after the Storm

6. Continue cooking and stirring this mixture until it is thick and brown. For me, this happens almost exactly 1 hour past

the addition of the baking soda. (You are looking for viscosity, while not allowing it to burn. Remember that brown color is the caramelization of the milk solids.

Getting Brown & Yummy

 

The darker you like your caramel, the darker you can let your dulche de leche go.

Be careful if you are pushing the envelope of color; it will burn in an instant!)

 

Brown & Bubbly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. Once you have decided it is ready, remove from heat. Ladle into jars.

I use a canning funnel to make this easier and cleaner. I also leave about 1/2″ room of headspace at the top of the jar.

 

 

 

 

8. Once cooled to room temp, store jars in the fridge. Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

 

Mint Chocolate Chip with Mint Chocolate Fudge Sauce

OK first thing’s first…  I love LOVE love having an ice cream maker.  It is the new fascination in my foodie life.  I am starting with the tried and true recipes of the masters, and I’m sure I will branch off soon into my own pensive land.

Today I needed to bring a dessert to a little friendly get together, but of course, it turned into a challenge.  My host thought the options could only be among the simple – namely chocolate, vanilla or strawberry.  There is nothing I love more than a challenge where someone says, “that’s not possible.”  So instead I crafted the first request from my friend’s son – Mint Chocolate Chip.

Of course, I went to the master, Mr. Lebovitz, for a starting point.  (Here is his recipe.) I wanted to try a natural mint ice cream. Frankly, I don’t think I have ever had one. We all know those national food guys aren’t steeping mint for each batch. So I followed the instructions and steeped the fresh mint leaves for an hour in the warmed milk, cream, and sugar mixture. Continue with the custard and more cold cream, et voila!  Ice cream…

I adore the Stracciatella method of adding chocolate chips and my gosh, it is SO simple. Melt some great chocolate and stream it into the 90% churned ice cream.  It practically freezes on contact and then gets mixed in to the cream in long thin shards of chocolate.  It is beautiful and creates the most wonderful texture in your mouth.  The other plus of this method is no stabilizers from commercial chocolate chips – just pure chocolate love!

This ice cream has such a fresh herbaceous flavor, definitely mint.  I think at first the flavor stunned me a bit because I am so used to the mass produced mint ice creams.  I wasn’t sure I liked it upon first bite.  But it didn’t take many more bites for it to grow on me, and I love it.  I also love knowing that this upcoming summer there will be no need to throw away any mint.  Last summer I had so so so much mint that I couldn’t find enough uses for it. Problem solved…

I also chose to spiff up some homemade decadent chocolate fudge sauce with a little peppermint oil as an accompaniment to the main star.  Even if you don’t make the ice cream – I highly recommend trying your hot fudge recipes with different flavorings. You’ll be hooked!

Panforte Ice Cream

I decided to start tracking my ice cream endeavors. So many of them start with David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop, which I feel is a perfect book! This recipe is no different. Please check out the book here.

This ice cream tastes like an Italian panettone and is one of the most rich decadent frozen treats I have made. Flavors of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and honey perfume and flavor the custard.  At the end, roasted almonds and candied citrus peel are mixed in for more favor and texture.  This is certainly not something you are ever going to find in your run-of-the-mill ice cream shop.

While making the custard I realized that if I bumped up the spice profile, added a little black tea,  and left out the mix-ins, I would have a blissful chai tea flavor.  I highly recommend this flavor of ice cream if you want something a little off the beaten path but so scrumptious that everyone will love it.

David Lebovitz – The Perfect Scoop

This book was a gift for Christmas 2010, along with a shiny new appliance. An ice cream maker!!!  I had no idea I was missing anything by not having this machine earlier, but now on Jan 12th, I am reformed.  Homemade ice cream is THE single most amazing dessert discovery I had this year. OK OK, I know the year is so new the plastic hasn’t all been ripped off yet, but I am passionate about the homemade ice cream delights in my freezer.

I wouldn’t have been able to get properly started without David’s book of frozen wonder. I have tried blue cheese and honey ice cream (good but weird), gianduja (a milk chocolate ice cream made with hazelnut infused milk – a true worldly joy), chocolate, rocky road, guiness-chocolate, vanilla with and without chocolate chips…  If you own a machine or are thinking of getting one – The Perfect Scoop is THE perfect accessory.  You will not be disappointed.

The Perfect Scoop is a perfect 5 stars.  Enjoy!

  • 1 – hated it – not even worth the dead trees
  • 2 – got through it, but wouldn’t keep it in my library
  • 3 – really enjoyed it, was entertained, and would read more by this author
  • 4 – loved this book, need to keep it on the bookshelves and recommend to a friend
  • 5 – this blew my socks off and rocked my world